PARIS (AP) — A year ago it was panthers. Now horses have captured the imagination of Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci, whose fall-winter show in Paris on Sunday presented a highly charged and at times fetish-ized take on equestrian riding gear.
Jodphurs in black and sable brown shaped the silhouette of the collection’s first half, with oversized earrings like horse-blinders complementing high riding boots.
As ever with Tisci, there was a sense of danger at all times with chokingly tight neck scarves, loud, troubling music, and even one skintight leather piece — based on a sporting polo — that looked like bondage gear.
Maturing past his obsession with black, most of the looks incorporated reds, blues, and even pink pulling off a street-style effect.
There was a tangible 1970s edge as the collection developed. Intentionally crude stitching in one leather dress was followed by a series of intense-color slip dresses with clashing belts — harking back to the palette of British glam rock.
Indeed, associations with rock music have been a key factor in keeping Givenchy on the public radar in the past year.
Madonna’s mediatized performance at the American Superbowl last month was a marketing coup for the house, the singer dressed head to toe in Tisci’s couture.
With P.Diddy and Alicia Keys on Sunday’s front row, it’s clear that Givenchy’s a ticket the music stars can’t resist.